Mata Leon: Gentleman GiCritic 11:38 AM

A review by

Alejandro Molina

Blue Belt at Cia Paulista Team. Spain.

Mata Leon Kimonos is a brand based in Turkey. It was created by a couple of friends who met through Jiu Jitsu, and they decided to put up a brand that represents great designs and functional gis. Most of us must’ve heard of Mata Leon because of their commercial. Who else can pull something like that? Origin probably?

I had the chance to meet Emre, one of the owners, and he told me a bit about how he they came up with the gi. According to him, simplicity and clean designs were keys to how they made The Gentleman.

They used a lion for their logo. For those who don’t know, Mata Leon is another name for rear naked choke.

The thing with Mata Leon is that they are still young, and not as big as Atama, Shoyoroll, Storm and other big brands out there. They still produce by small batches.

 Using a 350gsm pearl weave fabric for the jacket, this is a very light gi perfect for summer time which also works well on colder days.

First Impression

I am currently 5´9 and 165lbs. Though I use an A2, Emre sent me an A3 because they ran out of A2s. Because of its size, I had to wash it more than I normally do with other gis in rotation. Normally, I usually wash them in a 30 min cold water program and let them dry under the Spanish sun, the best natural dryer.
The first detail I laid my eyes on were the labels on the inner jacket and pants.

I find it funny how they announce that you can really choke someone, so you better use it with extreme caution.  In my book, it was a subtle, but awesome detail.

This gi can be used as a choking device? Oh really?

In terms of overall design, they managed to minimize the noise by making it a clean white gi with accent of red contrast stitching. They also added some nice grey and gold embroidery on the chest, while having taping on both sleeves and pants.

Made of eva foam and covered in rip stop fabric, they made the lapel thick. I personally love thicker lapels since it is harder to grip on.

The pants were made of rip stop material. They provided decent reinforcement, and throughout the months that I used the gi, there was no sign of wear and tear or shrinkage to the pants.

ROLLING IMPRESSIONS

The great thing about the pants is that it comes with knee pads to support and to make you feel comfy sprawling or being on your knees when playing top etc.

Personally, there are only a few things to improve on the pants. For the loops, I´d prefer to have it at least four instead of just two. Also, they made use of drawstring. I´d prefer to have a bungee rope for that one also.

And finally, I would prefer that they change the reinforcement in the groin part with a single weave fabric.
I´ve been using this gi two hours a day, three days a week, for three months. The rolling sensation is awesome because the gi offers total movement capability, especially for guard players.

I live in a place where 32 degree Celsius is something common when you are rolling. This made the gi perfect for this climate. Also, the gi may look very light and breathable, but it was also durable, at least during the months that I’ve used it. On colder days, I pair it up with a rashguard.

AFTER ROLL IMPRESSIONS

As I´ve mentioned before, pants suffered minimal shrinkage. I noticed the jacket shrunk more after a couple of months. However, in terms of the top’s texture, it´s nice how the gi maintains its softness after every single washing.

CONCLUSIONS & WHERE TO BUY

This is a high quality gi, that I recommend for any one. This gi is perfect for those living in a country with a warm climate. For the price of the gi, you can check them out here or you can like them on their Facebook Page. They are selling the gi for €125 (173$) including world wide shipping.  Also there is a black version of this gi which I truly recommend even though I will always prefer white.

Simplified Guide on How to Start Your Gi Company GiCritic 11:31 PM

Shoyoroll and CTRL Industries are arguably the biggest players in the BJJ gi market today. If you are a practitioner of the gentle art, you must’ve encountered a number of fan boys going crazy over their $200 pre-order gis, or limited edition gis.  Who would’ve thought that Shoyoroll started their company in their garage in the 90s? On the other hand, you have CTRL that grew so fast in the last two years, that they are now neck and neck against the mighty Shoyoroll.

 By 2012, the same year CTRL Industries was established, explosion of different brands (both good and bad) entered the BJJ gi market. In fact, some observers are now noticing saturation in the gi market today. Despite this reality, there are still new brands every now and then that appear online.  But of course, expect the casualty rate to be high.

 If you have an ambition to own a gi company, you have to figure out how to minimize possibilities of closing, and grab every opportunity that presents itself. Most individuals planning to start a gi company want to know if it is a high risk investment. It is both a yes and no. It is a high risk investment because it is extremely hard to stand out from the number of gi companies out there. No, because you really do not have to throw everything you have. Majority of brand owners still have a day job.

Charlie and the Gi Factory

How to start your gi company?

Gone are the days when you need to fly all the way out to Pakistan, China or Japan just to get the right factory that would make the right gi for your company. We are now living in the modern world where factories actually engage with brand owners through Facebook, emails and other means of communication. Despite the fact that it is really easy to get a factory, and start your brand, there are a number of details that owners need to consider. Over the last years, I’ve been friends offline with some gi company owners, and so far, here are things that I’ve learned.

            What is your vision for your company?

If you are the type of owner, with no vision whatsoever for a company, then better stop now. It is important that you have an idea how you want the company to look in the next years to come. Though not an overnight thing to accomplish, it helps to have a dream where you want the brand to be. Start having short, mid and long term goals in order to get your company where you want it to be.

           Who is your target market?

All over the world, there are a great number of companies that are making their presence felt. Some catching the interest of the BJJ crowd, while some, simply just disappear without a trace. One of the reasons why some companies don’t make it is because they lack focus on who they should sell their products to. Though it is a good idea to target a more general BJJ crowd, targeting specific demographic is a way to clinch a part of the market. Ever wondered why there are Hawaiian themed gis? Also, how about brands like Fenom that concentrated mainly on women’s gis?

            Name of your company

Oss Kimonos from Brazil

Oss Gear/Oss Clothing

What’s in a name? It is important that you find a name that can easily be remembered. Also, always make sure to double check if there is a similar name to your company. One perfect example is OSS Kimonos. Anyone in the BJJ scene would recognize the term “OSS!”. Sometimes overused, but the point is that, everyone is familiar with it. The problem is that Oss Gear (The more popular brand that brought us the Miyao Shirts) came later than the OSS Kimonos, a brand based in Brazil.

            Create your logo

Now that you have a name, time to find a good graphic designer to make your logo. Does it have a meaning? Or maybe, you just opted to have a logo that is cute and catchy? For instance OK Kimonos used the tiger as their logo simply because it is cute and they are mainly selling kids gear.

            Design for your gi

Now that you have a logo, how do you want to have your gi? Are you planning to go for over an over the top gi design to the point that they won’t be allowed to be used in IBJJF tournaments? Or  perhaps, you stick to a clean design? From creating your logo, to this stage, you may want the help of a good graphic designer. A good graphic designer can help guide brands concretize their plans. Innovation and creativity are two of the staples that can get the attention of your market.

            Finding the right factory

Sublimation units

A great number of companies fold because of getting a defective batch. Here’s when you realize that you don’t just face the risk of facing poor sales, but you may also find yourself encountering a factory that produces gis that are subpar to your market’s expectations.

Gis, Gis, Gis, Gis Everywhere

What’s the best way to find out whether or not they have what it takes? Samples. Some companies try to get from different factories, pushing back the release dates just to make sure that they don’t make any mistake. You might be asking, which company should you go for? I’d be more than happy to assist if you are looking for a Pakistani OEM that can cater to your needs. I’ve had the experience of trying out these samples for my own personal use. Leave us an email at gicritic@gmail.com and I will personally recommend some factories I’ve tried.

           Get a Review

According to a study, online reviews are as important as personal recommendations offline by consumers. This is something that a brand owner could exploit. How the whole review works is that you send the reviewer a gi and they are going to give an objective assessment to what your gi is like. Who is the best gi reviewer to go to? Here are some review sites that you can check out.

• Grapplers Review
• Meerkatsu
• Gi Reviews

 

            Deciding on the number of gis per batch

How many gis do you plan to release per batch? The most important consideration is your capital. Do you plan to go by the hundreds? If you have enough capital, ordering bulk can save you money, however, be sure that you can sell it. One of the best ways to know how many gis you should have, is by having a pre-order. Here, you can gauge the popularity of your brand.

            Build your website

In order to facilitate doing business, it is important to have an e-commerce site. One of the most flexible and user friendly formats offered out there is Big Cartel. With a small amount of money, you get an easy to build, store with an inventory filled with different pictures.

            Know your social media

Most advertising campaigns made by gi companies were social media based. From Facebook to Instagram, there were some creative gimmicks that caught the attention of the BJJ crowd in the realm of the BJJ community in the social media.

            Good communications and proper damage control

Whether getting returns, sales inquiries, or sponsorship requests, it is important for a company to reply to every email that they get. Keep in mind that poor communications can easily spread in the forums, Facebook groups and other online outlets. You also need to know how to disperse displeased customers. Are they looking for a refund? If yes, know the reason why. As rule of thumb, according to one of the owners of a small gi company told me, you want to put yourself in the position of your customer.

            Know your facts and never mislead customers

Are you selling hemp gis or you have zero idea what hemp is? Always double, if not triple check your facts. Don’t be like Submission FC that would sell “hemp” gis only to end up being shamed online, and lose customers because they simply took the word of their factory.

Manila Kimonos Finesse Review GiCritic 8:37 AM

A review by Mr. A-Z

Manila Kimonos released the Finesse early 2014. This is the company's third gi design (after the Tropic Lightweight, and Thrilla Deluxe Gi). Weighing around 1.4 kg for an A1, The Finesse has a 450gsm pearl weave jacket and 10 oz. rip stop pants. The gi top’s sleekness is further highlighted by the black piping used along the lapel. Priced at only $130 plus shipping cost – good buy written all over.

I had the opportunity to talk to the one of the owners of Manila Kimonos. He mentioned that there are many firsts with The Finesse. It is their first time implementing a new cut and sizing scheme. This is also the first time they opened their doors to the international market while still keeping a good base of operations in the Philippines. From a business standpoint, this appears to be a good move towards expansion and reach. Logistics, according to them was a hurdle in expanding new markets.

Initial impression

The simplistic design and minimalistic color scheme is great. I personally love white gis. The piping around the lapel makes it stand out. Not the first gi that came up with a black piping on white gi, but I still dig it. The pearl weave material of the jacket feels soft on the inside, and isn’t abrasive to the skin when rolling in it. The embroidery is of high quality grain, and makes the lotus-themed logo of Manila Kimonos “shine” through its minimalist design.

"Refinement of Basics" 

Like most kimonos in the market today, the Finesse comes in a sublimated gi bag emblazoned with the Manila Kimonos lotus flower logo. The gi also comes with their logo sticker. Personally, I don’t include the gi bag as part of my ratings for a gi. I barely even use the bags after I start rolling in them. If you are keen on the aesthetics of a gi bag, you’re in for a treat. With high-detailed sublimation on the front with their logo – partnered up with the Finesse’s own branding on the bag, Manila Kimonos has spared no expense in making even the minutest details a priority.

Pre-roll review

Gi Bag. Photo Credit to Manila Kimonos

It is definitely one of my better fitting gis, if not the best with my more athletic frame. I am currently 5’6” and weigh 158lbs. and wear an A1. Another highlight of the Finesse is its lightweight feel. It doesn’t weigh you down even after hours of rolling. I am not a fan of rip stop pants, however the Finesse’ pants made me rethink that stand. The pants are sturdy with ample knee support, for my knees when I shoot for a takedown or just simply landing on the mats. The bungee cord that ties up the pants was of enough length to securely tie the rip stop pants in place. Some of my other gis are short on this aspect thus making it a hassle retying the drawstring after every roll.

During the roll review

My expectations were met when rolling in the Finesse. It’s a snug fit, as you would expect from an athletic cut kimono. I felt as if I was flowing through my passes and the techniques I implement in my game. The rip stop pants give enough room to scoot around your hips. I’ve had rip stop pants in the past that limited my movements. For a guard player like me, that is one important aspect to take note of. The sleeves being somewhat of a narrower fit than most gis, is excellent for keeping your opponents grips to a minimum.

Post-roll review

As I’ve stated in my previous reviews: I always hand wash and air-dry my gis under the sun. I never use washers and dryers. The gi retained its softness even after clean up. Shrinkage was minimal, I estimate a half inch for the sleeves and with the rip stop pants barely noticing a change. It’s good to note that the black dye used in the stitching and in the black lapel piping did not bleed during wash. It would be uncool to have black spots on a very clean kimono like the Finesse.

Overall conclusion

For a $130 price tag, you just won't get a gi this good that often, unless you see it on sale on BJJHQ and other websites. I love the fit, I love the simple design, and I most definitely love the price. If there is anything that I do not like about this gi, is that it only comes in white. Cleaning a white gi is a more tedious task especially after a long day’s training. My school uses blue puzzle mats, and the color rubs on this white gi. The Finesse is a small batch run and from what Manila Kimonos told me, they are running out of sizes quick.

A cleaner finish to a jiu-jitsu kimono is what’s more favored these days. Overly embroidered or patch on gis are but a thing of the past. This saves room for school patches or sponsors’ logos. The Finesse in terms of overall quality and aesthetics can be compared to the best brands out there.

If there is any room for improvement, I think they should come up with more colors like the first gi that they released.  

Where to Buy?

To order if you are in the Philippines, you can contact them through their email: manilakimonos@gmail.com or send them a private message through their Facebook Page. For orders elsewhere, you can check their online store.

Submission FC Busted For Selling Fake Hemp Gis GiCritic 1:11 PM

Hemp is a variant of cannabis that contains less than 1% of THC. THC is the type of cannabinoid that has the ability to produce psychedelic effect. Hemp has been used for different purposes including manufacturing of fabric, paper, fuel, wax etc. This variant of cannabis over the last years has been used for BJJ gis. One of the main characteristics of hemp fabric is that it is breathable and antimicrobial. Being a porous fabric, it is more comfortable to use for rolling in contrast to cotton. Also, one of its main selling points is that  it has the ability to fight off staph and other common problems that we encounter on the mats.

Hemp You Say? Not so fast.

Why Hemp?

In terms of cultivation, cotton requires 1400 gallons of water for every pound produced. In contrast to hemp, this requires only half of it. In terms of strength and reliability, hemp can grow faster and could be more durable in contrast to cotton. Also, hemp can be produced 200%-250% more fiber given the same land area. It also doesn’t require too many pesticides, and you could harvest hemp in a matter of 4 months. In short, it is economical, not to mention greener.

There are only a few countries all over the world that produce hemp fabrics used for gis. I personally had the opportunity to talk to a gi company owner, and he mentioned the hassle of getting it from China, including the price tag that it has.  Given the these factors, only a few companies make use of hemp material on their gis.

Spotting a Fake Hemp Gi

One of the premier brands that used hemp was Datsusara Gear. Built in 2007, they specialized mainly on MMA gears like bags. Since 2008s, they were able to develop hemp gis. They also worked hand in hand with brands like OTM with their line of hemp gis.


Recently, Christopher Odell from Datsusara released two videos that tackled how to spot a fake BJJ hemp gi.  They showcased gis from Datsusara Gear and Submission Fight Company, and Christopher Odell of Datsusara pointed out that definitely, SubmissionFC is using non-hemp material for their hemp gis, based on the burn test.


Also, they had the SubmissionFC gi tested and the result coincided with the burn test. In fact, more surprisingly, no trace of hemp was found on the gis.

Is Submission FC Aware?

After a stir regarding the fake hemp gis that they were selling, they finally admitted on their blog that they were actually selling fake hemp gis. They mentioned, however, that they were also victims in this whole mess putting the blame on the factory that supplied them with the supposed hemp gis.

According to them they are going to do the following:

1. Remove any hemp advertising
2. Source new tags with accurate labeling to replace current gi tags
3. Lab test all current and future products
4. Make sure previous customers are satisfied

Also, they mentioned that:

“If you have purchased any of our "hemp" gear within the past 12 months and are unsatisfied with the product, please email us with a copy of your receipt to cs@submissionfc.com and we will get back to you as soon as possible.” 

Why would the Submission Fight Company test the content of their hemp gi too late in the game? They mentioned that they just tested it beginning of March, when they were selling gis for how long now? This simply shows that they do not have any idea what their product is if not for all these efforts made by guys from Datsusara Gear. Also, Christopher Odell warned the company twice in the forums about this scenario. One in March of 2013 and another in September of 2013.

Vandal Kimonos Interview GiCritic 11:35 AM

 

There are a lot of small gi brands entering and exiting the market today. Though entering late in the game, Vandal Kimonos is a brand that caught our attention. With their Hawaiian inspired designs, we do believe that it is a tough market to be involved in. However, they still managed to remain relevant. In this interview, we try to learn more straight from the man who started Vandal Kimonos, Kiah Petrie.

Who is behind Vandal Kimonos and what inspired you to build Vandal Kimonos? Also, why name it Vandal Kimonos?

My Name is Kiah Petrie, I am a Nova Uniao black belt under professor Leandro Nyza who is a first generation Nova Uniao black belt under Professor Wendell Alexander, the co founder of Nova Uniao.

Vandal started as an eye wear company that my buddy started. Vandal Eye Wear ended up gaining a lot of popularity in Hawaii and in the martial arts world but it soon came to a halt because of disagreements between the partners and investors. Having trained Jiu Jitsu for over 15 years, I always had an affinity to the quality and design aspect of the kimonos I wore. I never really found one that had all the qualities I wanted together in one gi. Therefore I decided to take the name since it already had a tight nit following and also a catchy ring to it and recreated it as VK/Vandal Kimonos.

What year did you start developing products for Vandal Kimonos?

Our first batch of gis was released in 2013, however, me and my team had been testing samples from dozens of manufacturers around the world since 2010 trying to find the perfect production team.

I noticed that you banked on a Hawaiian/island theme on your product line? Don't you find it risky considering how many Hawaiian themed gis are out there especially now? 

Every person involved in our company is from Hawaii, born and raised and that is heavily reflected in our products. I don't think that it is risky. I think that if you are producing a quality authentic product it will shine through the clutter and the masses will follow.

Do you have any new product coming up? What can you say about it? Do you already have a price for it? 

Our newest gi, the S2 VIPER was just released and it is available on our website www.vandalkimonos.com, Price is $159 and shipping is free. Material wise it is the same as our previous models incorporating a 450GSM Pearl Weave jacket with our signature 12oz (pants). Military Spec Ripstop Pants, a pearl weave gusset and all ripstop lapel and inner reinforcements, it is the perfect combination of lightness and durability, the styling is low key basic white gi with some charcoal trim and minimal branding “no Hawaiian theme”.

Given the number of players in the BJJ gi market scene, how do you want Vandal Kimonos to be remembered by both Gi Addicts and casual buyers?

There is a huge amount of players in the BJJ Gi market at this time and I hope that our brand can be recognized and remembered as producing some of the highest quality gis on the market with original styling and excellent customer service.